Minimalist Entertains Forty Seasonal Menus for Dinner Parties, Cocktail Parties, Barbecues, and More

CELEBRATING SPRING'S ARRIVAL Raw beet salad Sauteed red snapper with rhubarb sauce New potatoes with butter and mint Coeurs a la creme with strawberries Here is a menu that could not be made in any season other than spring--at least not with truly fresh ingredients. Mint is up out of the ground, strawberries are everywhere, rhubarb is at the height of its short run, and beets are young, small, and delicious. The meal is a simple festival. Keys to success *To prepare the rhubarb, first "string" it. Hold the stalk in one hand. In the other, cut through the end with a small knife, stopping it short of cutting all the way through by pressing the flat of the blade against your thumb. Pull down the length of the stalk and the strings will come with it. This is a refinement, but a worthwhile one. *For the snapper, substitute sea or striped bass, grouper, or rockfish. *To make this menu somewhat more elaborate, add a soup, like Pan-Roasted Asparagus Soup with Tarragon (page 000) or Pea-and-Ginger Soup (page 000). Wine A crisp white would be best, like a Chablis or comparable California Chardonnay, or even something lighter, like Pinot Grigio. The timetable *The dessert should be made the day before, so that will be out of the way except for the final assembly, which you can tackle while your guests relax for a little while after dinner. *Prepare the beets first, and let them sit while you start the potatoes and the rhubarb sauce. *When the potatoes are nearly done, toss the beets with their dressing. Finish the potatoes and cook the fish at the same time; serve beets, potatoes, and fish together. RAW BEET SALAD Use young, small beets if you can find them. And wear an apron or old clothes; you will inevitably spatter some juice. Makes 8 servings Time: 20 minutes 2 pounds beets, preferably small 2 large shallots Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, or to taste 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup sherry vinegar or other good strong vinegar Minced fresh parsley, dill, chervil, rosemary, or tarragon 1. Peel the beets and the shallots. Combine them in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, and pulse carefully until the beets are chopped; do not puree. (Or grate the beets by hand and mince the shallots; combine.) Scrape into a bowl. 2. Toss with the salt, pepper, mustard, oil, and vinegar. Taste, and adjust the seasoning. Toss in the herbs, and serve. SAUTEED RED SNAPPER WITH RHUBARB SAUCE The addition of saffron not only adds a mysterious flavor but gives the rhubarb a golden glow. Saffron is expensive, but not outrageous if bought in quantity; an ounce will last you years. Makes 8 servings Time: 40 minutes 2 pounds rhubarb, rinsed and trimmed, strings removed 2/3 cup sugar, or to taste Large pinch of saffron, optional Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup olive oil 1/4 cup unsalted butter or use more oil Eight 6-ounce fillets red snapper Chopped fresh mint or parsley, optional 1. Combine the rhubarb, sugar, and saffron, if you are using it, in a medium saucepan, cover, and turn the heat to low. Cook, stirring only occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until the rhubarb becomes saucy. Add salt and pepper to taste and a little more sugar if necessary; if the mixture is very soupy continue to cook a little longer to make it thicker. 2. When you judge the rhubarb to be nearly done, put a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat. (You can either use two skillets or cook in batches; undercook the first batch slightly and keep it warm in a 200 degreesF oven while you cook the second batch.) A minute later, add the oil and butter (you may need a bit more of each if using two pans); when the butter foam subsides, add the fillets, skin side down. Cook for 4Bittman, Mark is the author of 'Minimalist Entertains Forty Seasonal Menus for Dinner Parties, Cocktail Parties, Barbecues, and More' with ISBN 9780767911931 and ISBN 0767911938.